Military Wristwatches - Collecting Vintage Style

[Note: My apologies that I haven't posted for some weeks. security issues with the blog have  taken some time to sort out. I hope you enjoy this feature on collecting old military watches].

How many men do you know who are obsessed by collecting something? It may be cars, watches, clothes, cameras, books, golf clubs, rare birds, works of art or racing bikes. We're no doubt reflecting some ancient instinct which had us accumulating weapons, vital tools or whatever was required for our survival.

British military watches from the forties to sixties - collectible style

One item that a man of style might collect is watches. A watch says much about its owner - just as a what we wear reflects our tastes and personality. For those who like to focus their collecting impulses, I'd suggest looking for vintage military timepieces.

The last few years have seen a move towards smaller watches of plainer design. To many this is a welcome move away from the growth in watch sizes throughout the 90s and 00s when some watches soared to approaching 50mm in diameter. 

In the early to middle years of the last century a man's watch could measure anything from around 28mm in diameter; a watch of 36mm plus would have been relatively large. While 40mm is now considered average, watch companies are gradually reducing the size of men's watches again in response to the growth of the Asian market (where wrists are smaller), the popularity of men's watches for women and the increasing interest in smaller vintage watches. Small is becoming more sophisticated. 

What better than vintage military watches to fill this niche and to appeal to man's collecting instincts? They are around 34mm to 36mm in diameter, but stand out on the wrist because they were designed to be highly legible. The watches in these pictures were made for the British military between the forties and sixties, a vibrant period of military watchmaking, before electronics brought us rather soulless quartz watches. They are robustly designed with movements which are beautifully made and generally easy to maintain.

Five vintage military watches and a more recent military-inspired Seiko

Many can be bought from around £1000 to £2000 currently (some types for even less), though collectible ones like the Omega 53 or Mk11 navigators' watches made by Jaeger LeCoultre and IWC for astro-navigation can cost many times that. One watch to look out for is a watch made in England by Smiths for the British Army - the 'Smiths W10'. Smiths watches represent the end of a longstanding tradition of British watchmaking and the W10 can be bought for a reasonable figure as it isn't particularly rare. To be able to wear a watch made entirely in the UK - movement, case, dial and hands, is now unusual, although Bremont are slowly reviving British watchmaking.

Military watches should hold their value and in many cases appreciate. Watch prices are in a bit of a limbo at present as the cost of living soars, but in the long term such watches will, I'm sure, prove sound investments.

Inevitably, buying vintage military watches is a minefield - a lot of fakes are sold on eBay and even on watch fora and by dealers - get good advice before you take the plunge. Google 'Military Watches' and get to know the dealers, join a good military watch forum online and read and learn. The watches will need looking after, a service will be necessary every few years to keep the movement in top condition. The costs of this will soon eat into any investment value, but overall a well-chosen watch will give you years of pleasure and represent a fair investment.

[This feature is an update of a piece I posted in February 2012].  

The New Land Rover Defender After Two Years

I've been the owner of the new Land Rover Defender for two years. I have used it for what it was designed for; long motorway drives, winding and swooping A roads, narrow rough country lanes, floods, snow, ice and occasional off-road. I bought it as I needed a tough and reliable car which would be highly capable on poor roads and rough terrain, and that is precisely, with a few reservations (read on), what the new Defender has proved to be.

At the launch of the new Land Rover Defender at Gaydon in September 2019

Mine (pictured below) is the base model 5 door 110; the only extras I paid for are green paint and a roof-rack. Despite this it came very highly-specced and there is nothing I have regretted not ordering. The inline 6 cylinder diesel is powerful, has plenty of torque (but is far from frugal at just over 33 mpg). It's excellent as a quiet and  refined motorway cruiser. The seats are comfortable, the interior roomy with an element of minimalist yet highly practical luxury. I can easily remove the clip in carpets, leaving a washable plastic floor, the seats are reasonably stain-proof and there are grab handles, unconcealed rivet-like bolts and a dash that combines hi-tech with a memory of early Series Land Rover and Defenders in its shape. 

Land Rover country

Indeed the whole car cunningly combines traditional Land Rover styling with contemporary design genius. This is a beautiful, chunky, tough-looking car. Land Rover designed it with durability as its key characteristic. It is also claimed to be the most capable off-road/road vehicle yet. This is achieved partly through the technology that allows the touch screen to be used to set up the car for most types of terrain. There are no red and yellow headed mechanical levers to be pulled and pushed (as on the olde Defenders) to select high and low range and four or two-wheel drive. That's all history. Higher models than mine allow a little more control for extreme off-road stuff, but I suspect these are very little used. The touch screen settings have seen me through all sorts of terrain, snow, ice and floods with consummate ease. It's this reliance on tech that was one of the reasons that traditional Land Rover owners were so against the new Defender who felt that mechanical simplicity is essential to the Defender name. 

I was lucky enough to attend the launch of the new car at Gaydon in September 2019. This was accompanied by a great wailing and gnashing of teeth from die-hard old Defender fans, few if any of whom had even seen the car let alone driven it. I approached the new car with an open mind (and I own a 1967 Series 2a Land Rover station wagon, so am not entirely in the pocket of the devil). I loved the appearance of the new car and by the technology and specifications. 

My Land Rover Defender has seen action in all sorts of conditions.
The steel wheels are ideal on the poor rocky roads I drive on.

We forget that the old Defender had changed very little in its 60 years. While most car manufacturers had changed their models' designs every few years; the Defender remained fossilised, little changed over the years. It's interesting to speculate whether a more conventional and gradual development and updating over that 60 plus years would have led to a vehicle much different to the new Defender. 

Sadly, the old Defender didn't meet emission or safety requirements and, while the diehards may have been unwilling to admit it, was not selling well its last few years. Change was needed and has been achieved: the new car is better than the old off-road and very refined on the road. 

The shortage of computer chips have caused long waits for those wanting the car. As one of the first owners of the new Defender, it's been interesting watching the types of owner who've been attracted to the car as it became more widely available. The numbers of heavily blinged Defenders that will never see mud or an off-road lane suggests that for some, this is a fashion vehicle. This type if ownership can't conceal the real potential of this car. As one of the (I suspect) minority of owners who drive it as a real Defender, I love its robust practicality for use on poor country roads, off road, in floods, ice and snow and as a refined touring car, rather than as a pimped up toy. 

Our new Defender is a superb tourer: Scotland (top) and Cumbria (above)

I've enjoyed the new Defender immensely. It's been totally reliable (so far). I love almost every aspect of the car. What don't I like? These concerns weren't deal breakers for me, but will be when the contract expires early next year: 

Firstly, this is a large car: too large for rural use on narrow lanes and roads, suggesting that Land Rover saw its real market elsewhere. I'd have preferred something around 15-20 cm narrower; how much of this width is the result of a need to meet safety requirements I don't know. The cameras help with management of the width in narrow spaces and the driver soon gets used to the size. However, the demise of large cars has been predictable for some years and I don't know why Land Rover felt it necessary to make it so bulky. 

Secondly, like a few other car manufacturers, Land Rover are behind in developing green vehicles. There should be an all electric car with a good range on the stocks but this appears unlikely to materialise until at least 2024. There's a dissonance here between the high tech nature of the car's design and the reliance on old fossil technology.

Thirdly, I achieve some 33.5 mpg from the car, not bad for such weight and power, but it looks outdated in a car so advanced in other ways. The car is described as a 'mild hybrid', with a small amount of electrical power being generated by the car which reduces fuel consumption by a limited amount. It would be good to see Land Rover further ahead with green technology.

The Land Rover Defender

Mine is the 5 door 110 diesel model, the shorter 90 has three doors. An even larger (why?) 130 model and a V8 powered car have appeared since I bought mine. There is a basic commercial model, but I have yet to see one used as such. A hybrid model is available but is pricey and, like all hybrids, has a limited electric power range of less than 30 miles. A fully electric is promised for 2024 (or later).

This is a capable and fun car and I love it. If only there was a greener car that equalled its capabilities.

See Land Rover Defender

PS: I don't mean this post to diminish the old Land Rover in any way. That remains a superb workhorse capable of most tasks. I'd never sully my new Land Rover by throwing a pile of logs, soil, a sheep or a couple of hay bales in the back. That's a task for the original. The last load in my '67 Land Rover was a pile of dirty cobblestones which I wouldn't put in the new vehicle! But I wouldn't venture out for a long journey, or go faster than 40mph in the Series 2a. 

Old and new are different cars, both supremely capable in their own ways. 

This is an unsponsored feature

Bell & Ross BR V2-92: A Practical and Versatile Watch

I always enjoy trying a watch brand I haven't worn before. I've known and admired Bell & Ross's timepieces from afar so was pleased to borrow one of their Vintage Collection to try for a few days.  

The Bell & Ross V2-92 Aéronavale watch

Bell & Ross were founded in 1992 to make robust watches for professionals such as pilots, divers and military personnel. They became known for their square watches, based on aeroplane cockpit instrumentation. They have supplied the French Air Force and motor racing teams as well, of course, as the man and women in the street. They make their watches in Switzerland.

I tried the Bell & Ross BR V2-92 Aéronavale, a 41mm automatic mechanical watch with a beautiful deep blue sunray dial, a bi-directional rotating bezel, 100m water resistance, screw-down crown and transparent case back giving a view of the movement. It has a distinct vintage pilot's watch vibe and has a real presence on the wrist, especially on the matching deep blue calfskin strap (it also comes of a steel bracelet).

The clean looks give the watch a contemporary feel and, while the Sellita-based movement has no claims to being chronograph tested, it kept extremely good time for the few days I wore it. At £2700 on the leather strap, this is a fair-priced watch which will fit well into the stylish person's wardrobe as it goes well with jeans and knitwear or a suit and tie. An all-round practical and yet very handsome watch.

See Bell & Ross.

The Barn by Chrono24: A Pre-Owned Watch Partnership

Buying secondhand and vintage watches can be daunting. Most dealers offer a short warranty, but very few have inspected and, where necessary, serviced and repaired a watch before sale. The watch seller that does is The Barn by Chrono24 (previously Xupes) where watches can be confidently bought and sold online. 

The Barn by Chrono24 in Bishop's Stortford north of London

The Barn by Chrono24

Most importantly for watch buyers, the business will work alongside The Watch Atelier where watches are serviced and repaired by award-winning watchmakers.

I was shown around the grade II listed barn which houses The Barn by Chrono24 and met founder Joe McKenzie who sees the Barn as providing a comfortable experience to customers and staff alike in Soho House Group furnished surroundings just outside London. Here watches can be examined in comfort before purchase (or taken to be sold) and the impressive workshop can be seen through large viewing windows.

Meeting Richard West and Megan Young, Watchmakers of the Year

I was introduced to watchmakers Megan Young and Richard West, WatchPro Watchmakers of the Year 2022. They run an impressively equipped state-of-the-art workshop in which timepieces are checked for sale and any necessary repairs and restoration undertaken. The Watch Atelier offers these services to all - you don't have to have bought your watch through Chrono24 - and they offer a 24 month warranty on all such work.

I was very impressed by what I saw and heard of The Barn by Chrono24 and, importantly, would feel totally confident in buying (or selling) a watch, or having one serviced or repaired there.

The Barn by Chrono24

The Watch Atelier

If Xupes and The Barn look familiar to you, you may have seen it featured on Channel 4's Second-Hand For Fifty Grand which looks at the market for pre-owned luxury items such as watches and handbags.

This is an unsponsored feature.

Aftershave or Cologne? Sponsored Post

Men are increasingly turning to grooming products which have a specific purpose. Products such as deodorants, moisturising creams and aftershaves do much more than simply provide an attractive fragrance

And here lies the difference between an aftershave and a cologne. A men's aftershave soothes the skin after a shave. It may work as a disinfectant, protecting any minor nicks from infection (a small risk if, like me, you use a double-edged razor for a closer shave) and also provides a cooling effect as it evaporates quickly. In general the scent of an aftershave doesn't last long as it's less concentrated.

What are the differences between aftershave and cologne?

Cologne, on the other hand, is designed without the practical benefits of an aftershave. Its higher concentration allows its perfume to last longer, ideal for an evening out or for a special event. You can apply a cologne soon after your aftershave without a clash of scents as the aftershave will disappear fairly quickly.  

I suggest that you try some aftershave samples and compare them with  your favourite fragrances. Samples only cost a few pounds each and for a small outlay you can select your favourite. I use this method to choose many of my grooming products as it avoids unsustainable wasted and unused containers cluttering up bathroom cupboards.

Another reason for buying samples is that the words cologne, fragrance and aftershave are sometimes used interchangeably and all products differ in character and ingredients. An aftershave is a splash-on product without a lasting scent and usually with antiseptic and soothing properties. A cologne simply has a more lasting fragrance. Buying samples will help you decide which products have the properties you're looking for.

This post is sponsored by Notino.

Wallace Sewell: The Elizabeth Line, Scarves, Ties, Textiles

Wallace Sewell first caught my attention for their beautiful use of colour and texture in fabrics for furnishings and textiles and I'm lucky enough to own a few scarves (see the image below) and ties in their gorgeous, varied, but highly characteristic designs. 

Wallace & Sewell moquette design for the Elizabeth Line

Wallace Sewell, texture, colour and design - made in the UK

I am reminded of them every time I travel on London's Underground. Why? The reason is that they are behind the designs of the fabrics used in the seating on several routes including The Overground and Tramlink services. Their 'Barman' design, incorporating several London landmarks including the London Eye, is seen on several lines. 

Most recently Wallace Sewell have interpreted the rich purple of the new Elizabeth Line to perfection in their moquette (a thick pile fabric for upholstery or carpets) for the seating of that line. The purples, mauves, greys, beige and splashes of orange and red are carefully designed to hide future wear and tear.

Above two images from Dezeen

Harriet and Emma, co-founders of Wallace Sewell, say about their designs:

"Emma - Our design for the Elizabeth line was a progression from a design we created for the precursor of Crossrail, the TFL Rail service running from Liverpool Street to Shenfield. This had been inspired by travelling the route and abstracting its surroundings into rectangles and linear motifs. For the Elizabeth line design, we worked into the pattern, adding more pinstripe details, as a nod to the suits of the City of London and creating a sense of speed, as the line travels from East to West. 

Harriet - The colour palette started with the specific shade of purple that is the line colour, to which we added other tones of purple, mixed with warmer and lighter shades to keep the fabric bright in overall effect, complementing the dark interior. The palette also incorporates flashes of others line colours that the route interacts with as accents. 

Emma - As with all our designs for TFL, we aim to create a complex pattern that is bold and dynamic, yet balanced in it’s repeat, and in this design we disguised this through repetition of simple motifs, so that the eye is drawn along the carriage whilst maintaining a vertical framework."

Wallace Sewell's moquette for The Elizabeth Line

Wallace Sewell - working on the artwork

Wallace Sewell's Elizabeth Line design necessarily lacks the multiple textures of many of their textiles which often use several types of yarn in their construction. However, the clever use and mix of colours and the vertical and horizontal nature of the designs is seen in both the moquette and other products like my scarves. All are recognisably Wallace Sewell. For readers of this blog, the scarves and ties are  must, but there is plenty on their website to tempt the admirer of contemporary British design. These pieces will be collectibles of the future.

For more on Wallace Sewell and their designs, and to purchase, go to Wallace Sewell.

Note: the scarves were gifted.

HM The Queen - Platinum Jubilee

On 6 February 2022 Her Majesty The Queen became the first British Monarch to celebrate a Platinum Jubilee, marking 70 years of service to the people of the United Kingdom, the Realms and the Commonwealth. 

I'm 67 years old and Queen Elizabeth II has been sovereign for all those years. Her reign has been truly remarkable and, while the future of the monarchy is questioned by some, few question the huge benefits she has personally brought to this country.

Many Congratulations on 70 Glorious Years!

Her Majesty aboard HMY Britannia in 1972 - photo by Lichfield

Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute: A Watch With a Story

It's the stories behind some wristwatches that draws enthusiasts. While I no longer collect watches with any great seriousness, it was the sixties Omega Speedmaster Professional, the watch that was worn on the Moon, that started my love for timepieces with history. But there was a Swiss watch, recently revived by Breitling, that was worn in space before the Omega.

Scott Carpenter's Breitling Navitimer (left) and the new Limited Edition (right)

Breitling is a watch brand I've never owned, but have long admired from afar. They have revived the gorgeous old Navitimer Cosmonaute to mark the 60th anniversary of its journey aboard the Aurora 7 spacecraft on the wrist of astronaut Scott Carpenter. The classic Navitimer was designed as a pilot's watch, with its inbuilt calculator, useful in the days long before on-board computers and navigation systems, so it was bound to appeal to an astronaut with a pilot's training. 

New and old (Carpenter's damaged watch centre) Breitling Navimtimer Cosmonaute

Breitling have described it as 'the first Swiss watch in space' - with the emphasis on the word 'Swiss'. Yuri Gagarin is reputed to have worn a Soviet timepiece on his first trip into orbit in April 1961, so the Breitling wasn't the first wristwatch in space. US astronaut Alan Shepard followed Gagarin a few weeks later (he's believed not to have worn a watch). John Glenn travelled into orbit in February 1962 wearing a Heuer stopwatch (not strictly a wristwatch) strapped to his wrist. 

Scott Carpenter was launched on his Aurora 7 spacecraft on 24th May 1962 wearing, as claimed, the first Swiss wristwatch into orbit. He had requested the Breitling with a 24 hour bezel to replace the standard 12 hour bezel on the Navitimer. 

Scott Carpenter wears his Breitling Navitimer

Carpenter's watch was was damaged by seawater after splashdown, but it still exists, corroded and unrestored, as a memento to this remarkable journey (see the pictures above). The new Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute is a homage to the original, but subtly updated with a platinum bezel and an open sapphire crystal caseback, engraved with the date of Carpenter’s mission “ONE OF 362” (the number of orbits on the flight and the number of watches available in this limited edition).

The new Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute is available on either a black alligator leather strap or a seven-row stainless-steel bracelet. Price: £8,700 on steel-bracelet and £8,400 on black alligator strap.

The Limited Edition Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute

Competition: Three Great British Brands (ends 29th May 2022)

I'm delighted to announce that I've partnered with three of my favourite brilliantly British brands, Cordings of Piccadilly, Tusting and Loake Shoemakers to give you the chance to win the ultimate British menswear ensemble of clothes and/or accessories. 

There are four generous prizes to be won and you can enter the competition below. Please note that no entries will be accepted after midnight UK time on 29th May 2022 - so get your skates on and Good Luck to All!

I show some great products from Cordings of Piccadilly, Loake Shoemakers and Tusting

The story started when I invited these three brands to take part in and to sponsor my British Brands photoshoot earlier this Spring. During the 'shoot they kindly offered to arrange this competition in which they offer to their customers and to Grey Fox readers the chance to win the following hugely generous prizes:

The Main Prize:

• £600 worth of Cordings of Piccadilly clothes or accessories, plus
• £500 to spend with Tusting on their range of English-made bags and luggage, plus
• A pair of Shoes or Boots of your choice from Loake’s 1880 Classic or 1880 Country range. 
• The opportunity to have an in-store style consultation with my favourite personal stylist, Sarah Gilfillan of Sartoria Lab (online consultation available, if preferred). 
• Finally, I hope to be present at this styling session to meet the winner.

Three Runners Up Prizes

Three runners-up will each win a £200 Gift Voucher for either Cordings, Tusting or Loake.

HERE'S HOW TO ENTER:

Note: Please note that while the photoshoot was a partnership with the three brands my role in this competition is unsponsored.

Artist & Stick Maker: Helen Elizabeth Roberts

One of the benefits of Instagram is the contacts that can be made through it. I heard from artist, crafter and stick maker, Helen Elizabeth Roberts about her work and couldn't resist showing you the wonderfully painted sticks made that she makes.

I haven't seen the sticks in the flesh, but they look so beautiful in the images I wanted to talk to her to find out more about her craft.

Helen Elizabeth Roberts, artist and stick maker

GF: Please introduce yourself

HER: Hello, my name is Helen Elizabeth Roberts I am an artist, stick maker and crafter. Having a firm sense of place I am inspired by my surroundings, capturing the spirit of where I live. Using a variety of different mediums I communicate rural life through my artwork. Often depicting the interaction between the rural community and its wildlife historically and present day.

I adore the coast & countryside and all that goes with it. My special love is for the forests, the mountains and the fast running rivers, streams and brooks. I have a passion when it comes to animals and birds having the luxury of being surrounded by them at home. The countryside, wildlife and animals have a very strong influence on my work. But I do like to paint other subjects when the opportunities arise.

A selection of sticks made and painted by Helen Elizabeth Roberts

GF: You describe yourself as an artist and stick maker, how did you come to be an artist and what led you to stick making?

HER: I have always been that person, even as a child who could be found sketching, painting, or making things in my spare time. But my creations were rarely seen by anyone outside my family circle. Realising as I have matured the only thing stopping me now is me. So your question “how did I become an artist?" I would answer: I have always been one but only recently have I been brave enough to shout “I am an artist, this is who I am”. Stick making however came about through a sort of challenge. My partner is a big shooting man and wanted a new thumb stick. He wanted something unique and different but he could not find anything he liked. I said I would have a go at making him one and here I am today a few years on still making and painting bespoke one off pieces.

GF: How did you learn the skills of stick making?

HER: The internet is such a valuable source of information and help. Skilled and sometimes people learning too happily sharing their knowledge and experience online. So I made the most of this source and this is how I learnt. I still have the first stick I crafted depicting flying grouse with a shooting man, his two English pointers by his side. It is a good reminder of where it all started and how much I have progressed over the few years. I learnt a lot by trial and error, using different processes until I had a method that suited me best.

Recent work by Helen Elizabeth Roberts

GF: Do you see your sticks as practical objects or as works of art?

HER: It is mostly about the art for me so I see them as unique works of art first which have the advantage of being a practical piece too. Some clients use the sticks for walking, hiking or shooting loving to show them off when out and about. Whilst others are stick collector’s, people wanting an art piece to decorate their hall in a stick stand or to be hung up as wall art. Either way they are a great talking point.

GF: Please describe the process of selecting the wood, making and painting your sticks.

HER: All sticks are lovingly handcrafted made from natural materials, constructed using traditional stick making methods.

These sticks are very tactile as well as stunning and different to look at. The handles are lovely to hold. You can feel the contours of the wood on the shaft and part of the painting technique means the painted surface is not always totally smooth giving it more life and interest.

As I am so busy I now have a wonderful supplier in the UK who provides the stag horn and straightens the shafts which are seasoned for at least 1 year. I handpick all my stock and look for a shaft that is as thick and straight where possible. I do use thinner shafts at times when required. If a person wants a commission they can choose if they would like a thinner or thicker stick.

For stag horn thumbsticks and wading staffs, naturally shed red deer antler is used to make a beautiful tactile handle or thumb rest. Tipped and finished off with black buffalo horn or cow horn which I hand work and polish to a high gloss. I add a collar of buffalo horn which is also worked and polished. To finish a high gloss vanish is used. All sticks are fitted with a brass (or rubber if grip is required) ferrule to protect the bottom.

Each stick is hand painted, the shaft framing the unique piece of original art work signed and dated by myself. And finally to finish, marine varnish is used to add lustre and further protection to the naturally durable materials and artwork.

I work personally with each client, listen to their story for the piece so I can capture the spirit of what they want to see and feel each time they gaze upon their finished artwork. I have a league time of 2 months for a bespoke commissioned stick from preparation to the finished product.

Sticks by Helen Elizabeth Roberts

GF: Have you always had an interest in rural life and wildlife?

HER: Yes, but have not always had the opportunity to embrace it fully till now. You could truly describe my life journey by looking at my past and present attire. I have gone from being suited and high heel booted, to Dubarry deck shoes Musto sailing coats with life jacket then finally at last having my green hunter wellies, Barbour wax jacket and Tweed flat cap. I have always been an animal lover having pets all my life. Even from a young age I always adored our British coast and countryside appreciating everything it has to offer. I moved near the coast in my 30’s and deeper into the countryside in my 40’s really embracing rural life fully. Now still surrounded by various pets and animals with my partner I truly feel rural in every way.

GF: How do you see your business developing?

HER: I do not know what the future holds at this stage. This is the most contented stage of my life being with my animals in a rural environment having the privilege to be able to create works of art that bring joy to peoples lives by giving them a little piece of countryside in an art form.

With the positive feedback I receive I can see my business growing steadily especially as I now have more exposure. But, I would like to develop my business in a way that does not dilute my unique style. And to be able to still provide the personal touch which people love when commissioning a piece of art.

As well as my my unique hand painted sticks I also offer limited edition gicleé fine art prints, homeware and natural feather hat pins.

GF: Many thanks for this fascinating insight into your life as artist, stick maker and nature lover.

Links:
Website: www.helenelizabethstudios.com
YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCO-lmYtKwpPO5YemehXbaxg
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/helenelizabethstudios/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/helenelizabethstudios

Bremont x Bamford Watch Company - Another British Watch Collaboration

Two British watch collaborations within one week is a rare event and symptomatic of the steady revival of the once-great British watch industry. Coinciding with the launch of the Fears-Garrick watch (featured here) comes a timepiece from Bremont and Bamford Watch Department - the Bremont Bamford S500 Special Edition.

The Bremont x Bamford WD S500 on my wrist at the launch

Launched in a cloud of tongue in cheek secrecy with a nicely edited spy thriller-style video and graphics, the S500 is limited to 250 pieces. This (like the Fears-Garrick watch) is a collaboration arising from a long friendship between two British brands. 

Rivalry has no place in British watchmaking and it's good to see brands combining creative skills to produce watches which, like the S500, benefit from the fusion of design ideas and brand characteristics. In this case the creative skills of Bamford Watch Department give a very contemporary edge to the Bremont tool watch robustness.

Bremont x Bamford Watch Department S500 watch

The S500 sports bright blue indices which jump out against the dark black layered dial and the 43mm diver's watch case, making this a practical yet stylish timepiece. The movement is chronometer rated, with enhanced shock-proofing and the DLC-treated case is water resistant to 50ATM or 500m. On the wrist it's comfortable with not too much bulk. This is a watch that will be noticed and commented on favourably when you have one sitting on your wrist.

The watch is priced at £3995.

Bremont Watches

Bamford Watch Company

Fears and Garrick Collaborate on a New British Watch

British watch companies, Fears and Garrick, have collaborated to produce a new watch, launched today. I've known David Brailsford of Garrick and Nicholas Bowman-Scargill for some years and both are united in their passion for making high quality watches and for developing British brands. They have known each other and supported each other's efforts as they grew their brands, so a collaboration was perhaps inevitable.

The resulting Fears - Garrick watch is 42mm in diameter, made at Garrick's workshop in the UK and only available through Fears. It uses the Garrick UT-G04 movement with power reserve indicator. This is hand  wound and regulated to within 5 seconds a day. The hands are the usual Fears skeleton design and the watch marries the key elements of both watch brands very well. 

I haven't yet seen the watch in the flesh, but my experience of both brand's watches is that photographs never do them justice and I'm sure that the dial, with its paper-like matte finish, will look superb against the indices and beautifully finished case.

David Brailsford & Nicholas Bowman-Scargill. The project started over a cuppa in Costa

The piece isn't a limited edition, but only 10-15 pieces can be made each year. Priced at £19,500 inc.VAT. 

Links:

Fears Watch Company

Garrick Watchmakers

Thomas Clipper Polaris: A Podcast and a Space Launch

Thomas Clipper have launched (literally) their new fragrance; Polaris. When I say 'literally' I mean the word as they have launched it 30km into space; you can see more on the video at the end of this feature.

Thomas Clipper were kind enough to interview me for one of their podcasts marking the new fragrance and you can listen here:

Polaris is an immediately attractive fragrance, warming, comforting, mossy, long lasting without being intrusive with hints of lemon, pepper and spice. (I discuss my thoughts in the podcast). This is another classic from this very British grooming brand.

Go to Thomas Clipper for more information and to buy their fragrances and grooming products.

Note: I was gifted a sample of Polaris.

Michlmayr: Wristwatch Repair and Servicing

I recently had one of my watches serviced (at no charge to me, see note below*) by Norwich-based watchmakers, Michlmayr. My wristwatch collection is smaller than it used to be, but I like to ensure that they are kept well maintained. 

Servicing and repairing a mechanical watch (or a clock) is a cost that needs to be factored into watch ownership, but is an expense only required perhaps every 5-10 years and, if done regularly, maintains the value of the timepiece while keeping it running as accurately as when new.

My early 90s Tudor 'Big Block' chronograph beautifully serviced by Michlmayr

Michlmayer was established in 1986 and now has a team of qualified and experienced watch and clockmakers providing services to private clients, to the public sector and cathedrals and churches repairing, servicing and restoring wristwatches and clocks. They kindly offered to service one of my watches and I selected a Tudor 'Big Block' 79170 chronograph dating from the early 90s which, while it was running well, was due a clean and a lube.

I suspect that many owners have little idea of the wonders that lie inside their mechanical watches. The Tudor has a workhorse Valjoux 7750 movement with little decoration but a truly utilitarian beauty. I'm grateful to Michlmayr for taking the following images for me. It's when you see the complexity of these movements that you begin to understand the skills, expertise and the cost of servicing. What the images don't show is just how small some of the parts are - yet an experienced watchmaker handles the tiny components with remarkable confidence and dexterity.

Michlmayr have done a superb job. I asked them not to polish the case (which they will do if required) as I prefer it to be kept as original as possible. The watch was returned to me running well within 5 seconds a day (and this isn't a chronometer movement). A bent secondhand was replaced with a Tudor replacement and the watch looks superb, now acting as my daily wearer.

Finding a reliable watchmaker can be hard, but I'm pleased to recommend Michlmayr highly on the basis of this experience. To find out about their watch and clock services or to book a service go to Michlmayr

*Note: At my request Michlmayr serviced my watch without charge and I agreed to objectively review their services here on my blog.

My Tudor 'Big Block' chronograph 79170 before the service

Sustainable Style 16: Pure Shave - Reducing Waste

Pure Shave (link below) is a grooming brand new to me. They are keen to promote the sustainable aspects of their products. The problem with many men's grooming brands is that they rely heavily on plastic and other non-renewables in producing their products. Pure Shave's containers are metal and refillable.

Pure Shave products

I was sent samples of the fragrance, Amber, and of the shaving cream and the moisturiser and you can read my notes on these below, after my interview with James Kenning, who started the brand:

GF: Please introduce yourself the the brand.

JK: Hi, my name is James Kenning and I am the owner of Pure Shave London, a new eco-friendly grooming brand.

GF: How did you come to start Pure Shave?

JK: I started Pure Shave because I suffer from razor burn and rash and have done ever since I started shaving in 1987. I can remember looking in FHM for all the latest shaving products to come out (pre internet!) and would spend a fortune on the new products, but none of them really worked for me. I always thought there had to be an answer and a product somewhere.

Necessity being the mother of all invention, I stumbled on an idea for a key ingredient that I thought might work well within a shaving cream. With that in mind and a lack of products on the market, I decided to make my own.

I endlessly researched soaps, oils, emulsifiers and emollients, my aim was that every ingredient would have a benefit to the skin in some way. I also wanted to keep ingredients to an absolute minimum, hence the name, Pure Shave. Armed with half a dozen ingredients, I sat in my kitchen at home and started mixing. On the seventh attempt I had a formula that worked really well, no razor burn at all.

This was then tested on a group of my old school friends, who thought I had somehow lost the plot when I asked them to come round for beer and pizza but also to bring their razors! To my surprise, they all agreed the shaving cream was an idea worth pursuing.

This then started a very long four year process of getting the formula tweaked by a professional cosmetic formulation company to turn my idea into a viable and safe product, all the while holding down my day job in the TV and Film industry as a sound recordist. To say it’s been an emotional rollercoaster of a ride is an understatement.

The result of this hard work and effort is a fragrance free, hypoallergenic shaving cream, rich in vitamin E, a potent antioxidant that virtually eliminates razor burn and razor rash.

Pure Shave - I haven't tried the razor

GF: What products do you offer and what do you see as their advantages?

JK: The Pure Shave brand is built around the shaving cream which really does eliminate razor burn and rash. There are many different ways to use the shaving cream. You can use it with a shaving brush, either using a bowl or direct onto your face. If you take a few extra moments the shaving cream will whip up into a dense luxurious foam.

Personally, I use it just as a cream direct from the bottle, I think this is the best way to use it but the great thing is, you can experiment with it and use it how it works best for you. Some customers use it as a pre-shave balm as well, so it is incredibly versatile. The other excellent thing about the cream is that it is very economical, you don’t need to use much to get great results. Your skin will feel amazing afterwards, no tightness or soreness, your skin will feel soft supple and hydrated.

For those who need, we also offer a luxurious daily moisturiser, it is a non-greasy formula and is also fragrance free to keep any irritation to a minimum.

Our Eau de Toilette, Amber, was made for us by John Stephen at one of the UK’s leading fragrance houses based in The Cotswolds. I wanted a fragrance that had that ‘something' extra that made you want to keep smelling it, a fragrance that excited the senses, I have to say John has created something magical for Pure Shave.

The fragrance notes: it's based on the classic Chypre style [ed. a perfume based on sandalwood]. The blend of vetiver, musk, patchouli and ambergris form a rich, complex base. Layered on top are middle notes of geranium and pepper, floral with a spicy edge; and finally, orange and lime create the fresh citrus opening.

We also have an elegant, handcrafted wash-bag made from waxed saddle leather, sometimes known as Crazy Horse Leather. The application of wax over leather creates a rustic look that ages beautifully, picking up scratches and scuffs over time that add character and a vintage feel. The wash-bag features two compartments, both of which are lined with waterproof material. The large main compartment has space to contain anything you might need for business or pleasure, and the handy lower compartment is ideal for storing razors, scissors or other sharp items.

Our hand turned olive wood razor handles are a bestseller and are available on their own or as part of a set with options of a stand and brush or with a soap bowl as well. The handles are available for Gillette Mach3 or Fusion or for the traditional shaver there is a double-edged option.

Pure Shave Crazy Horse leather wash bag

GF: Sustainability is an important part of your offering - how does that work?

JK: Sustainability is a massive part of the business for me and one of the major headaches during the four years in development. It was so important for me that as a new brand we addressed the huge amount of waste we produce as individuals each year.

All of our products are refillable. The shaving cream and moisturiser are sold in aluminium bottles that can be refilled using one of the eco refill pouches. Each refill pouch holds enough product to refill the bottle three times. These pouches are made from recycled materials and are in themselves widely recyclable. However, instead of throwing them away when empty why not reuse them? They make great ice packs for picnics or for the gardeners among us they make great seedling planters.

We even offer a refill service for our fragrance Amber - this is the reason that it comes in a flight case, so that it can be posted back to us safely. You simply go on to the website and purchase the refill service and we do the rest - all you have to do is post it at your local post office.

GF: What other products will you be offering in future?

JK: There are a number of products in the pipeline but will have to see how the current sales go before I can implement them. That said, there is one product that I am really excited about and am awaiting delivery of, which is a sharpener for cartridge razor systems. I have had one on test for the last few months and it has amazed me at how well it works. This will extend the life of your cartridge razor which is great from a sustainability point of view.

GF: Where do you see the brand going in the next few years?

JK: Over the next few years I am looking to continue to expand in the UK. This is being done on my own, I have no large investors behind me so it will be a slow process but the reviews and feedback I get from customers drives me onwards and hopefully upward. I have one big advantage in that the shaving cream actually works so it speaks for itself.

GF: Many thanks James.

Note - I was sent samples of the shaving cream, moisturiser and Amber fragrance. Amber is a pleasant mix of woody and floral with a faint touch of citrus. It lasts well without being overpowering. Fragrances are very personal, but I suspect this would appeal to most tastes. 

The moisturiser is fragrance free and very effective with out being at all greasy. The shaving cream is also fragrance free and is applied with the fingers. It's not a shaving soap that's lathered with a brush - soaps can be variable in richness - but the Pure Shave cream is ideal as it lubricates the skin well without the addition potentially irritating fragrances. I don't suffer from shave rash myself, but I did find the cream less drying to use than some shaving soaps.

Go to https://pureshave.co.uk/ for more information and to purchase.

Read more in my Sustainable Style series

Field & Moor: Field & Country Boots - An Interview & Review

I spend a lot of time in the Great Outdoors. Whether fell walking in Cumbria, out with my dog Harry in London's Royal Parks, engaged in wildlife spotting or photography, I do these things in all weathers and conditions of terrain. 

Good practical clothing is essential, but a good pair of boots is vital. I do love a good boot and Field & Country (link below) sell a very good boot; for both men and women. Over the last year or so I've tried out a couple of boots from their range; the Marsh Harrier and Osprey field boots are beautifully made (in Spain) from soft leather with a waterproof, breathable lining and robust Vibram soles.

On the Cumbrian fells wearing Field & Moor Osprey boots

The boots are supremely comfortable and the flexible leather meant that there was no significant breaking in period needed for me. They take a little time to put on, but the high laces and (in the case of the Osprey) a buckled cuff mean that they can be micro-adjusted to fit and they remain secure in sticky, rough conditions or on very steep terrain. I've worn mine in bogs, steep leafy woodland, fording steams and on rough, tussocky moorland. They stay dry, secure and comfortable. The Vibram soles (which seem little changed very little in design since I bought my first climbing boots over 50 years ago), have outstanding grip on mud and even on wet rock.

I spoke to Field & Moor founder, James Waddell, to find out more:

GF: Please introduce yourself and tell us your background

JW: My Background: thirty plus years in footwear; Clarks, Aldo, Wolverine & Hush Puppies, Steve Madden and own label regional brands. I did three spells in overseas markets Far East, emerging markets of Caucasus and the Middle East, travelling to regional partners in Canada, USA and Europe.

I dreamt of setting up own brand based back in the UK, looking to utilise sourcing, brand development & selling experience that I had gained. I aimed to combine attending Country Trade shows and online direct to customer experience. 

I'm a Member of the Society of Shoe fitters which promotes healthy well-made products. I enjoy talking with factory owners on how to get a well-made boot that fits and suits end use. Striving to put the consumer as focus of all activities within the supply chain and operations is vital to me.

Field & Moor Osprey boots

GF: How did you come to start Field & Moor?     

JW: I felt there was a sufficient opportunity in the market for a new brand of country boot that combined craftmanship, comfort & style to cater for discerning customers who enjoy country pursuits and lifestyles. I was looking to scale it to around 1,500 – 2,000 pairs a year without becoming too big and impersonal. I was inspired by success of the enterprising guys behind Fairfax & Favor and followed their progress online and through PR whilst overseas as they gained traction with a new outlook and flair.

GF: Why Country Boots?

JW:  Great Question. I was looking for a combination of personal background and a product category in which I could carve out a good reputation for new brand.

I had always enjoyed the product development for the winter season, both when I was a store manager representative on the men’s product development committee at Clarks. It required a more discerning purchase and I recognised it was a trend as all year around fashion.

With challenging climatic conditions to minus 30 degrees and prolonged winter in the Caucasus I spent a lot of effort on product development with franchise partners. Even surprisingly whilst in the Middle East with up to 50 degrees, I spent a lot of effort on the Wolverine Industrial Boots range for the oil & gas industry. I always packed a good pair of Panama Jack Boots on my overseas ventures and recognise the importance of product that performed in adverse conditions.

As part of my background research for Field & Moor I visited trade fairs in Milan and London, found factory owners on trips to Spain and Portugal to understand their manufacturing capability and outlook. I visited 15 factories looking at every aspects of their operations and getting to know them as all were small scale family-owned businesses.

Wearing Field & Moor Marsh Harrier boots

GF:Tell us about your products, the styles, materials and methods of construction. 

JW:  each product is named after a British bird of prey to appeal to the target audience.

The Osprey style got the brand some recognition in the Country Boot market. It has a double buckle strap around the top of the boot, giving it a distinctive look. The reinforced piece of leather acts as a “Gun Rest” on the vamp and has appeal to those that use a gun in field sports. It is also gaining some recognition to those who ride a motorcycle!

The Marsh Harrier style is the New nine inch rugged trekking & hiking boot. Again a storm welted construction that aids water repellence around the welt, as it utilises a wider part of leather that is folded back to form a barrier.

The Golden Eagle pull on boot is slightly longer and finishes just below the knee. It has a contrasting suede collar and elasticated gusset at the top to aid entry & exit of the boot. Like all in the country boot range, it's treble stitched for added strength and has a Sympatex breathable and waterproof lining.

The above are the three top sellers in the range.

Field & Moor Marsh Harrier (left) and Osprey (right) field boots

GF: I have been wearing the Osprey and the Marsh Harrier. The former has a higher buckled cuff, but otherwise the two models seems similar to my untutored eye - what are the differences between them?

JW: Good Question - The Osprey has a full bellows tongue, whereas the Marsh Harrier has a half bellows tongue. The Marsh Harrier would suit better a customer who has a wider calf fitting. There is a row of ski hooks in the lacing system of the Marsh Harrier which allows it to be drawn closer to the surrounding ankle. Although the Marsh Harrier is a hiking / trekking boot it would be ideal for use in muddy terrain as this lacing system is really required in more upland areas.

I have had customers purchase a pair of Osprey for driven shooting and a pair of Marsh Harrier for trekking and hiking.

GF: Who do you see wearing Field & Moor boots?

JW: The Country set has been well served for several generations by established brands such as Dubarry of Ireland, and the country collections of the highly regarded Northampton Footwear Brands.

Field & Moor is looking a carve a niche in providing country boots with character, styling & comfort as part of a package delivered by highly skilled craftspeople. The boots are positioned at discerning gentlemen (and now ladies) who want suitable footwear for their country pursuits and would not look out of place when wearing around town.

I'm now getting enquiries from customers who saw a colleague or friend wear them on a shooting day out. This is encouraging as it always takes time to build brand awareness.

Having the product photographed alongside other Country clothing and accessories brand has helped appeal via Instagram and seeing Field & Moor products on sporting goods brands website has proved invaluable.

Field & Moor March Harrier boots

GF: You have used a designer, Hannah Styles? How has she contributed to the styles of your products?

JW: It's been been extremely useful working with Hannah, whose background is classically trained through De Montford University with Degree in Footwear design. Also, her outlook is fresh & I have found her to be strong on colours, fashion trends and styling.

Hannah works part time developing ranges for Hush Puppies brand in the UK and with Brands such as Field & Moor. She is aware of latest comfort technology and able to advise of fitting and standards of workmanship on sample development.

GF: What plans do you have for Field &Moor in future? Any plans for other forms of country wear?

JW: Field & Moor has a stronger program for attendance at key Shooting & Game Fairs throughout 2022 to support its online retail shop. at www.fieldandmoor.co.uk.

We are attending the British Shooting Show at NEC in February (a three day event and the biggest International Shooting show in UK) through to the more modest Highland Fair in Aberdeenshire in July. I'm looking for suitable County Fairs that have strong agricultural and shooting pedigree.

I've extended the range to ladies options. This has helped as customers have returned on behalf of their partner who has shown an interest in the product. I plan to introduce fashion colours, the first being Teal Green leather in the Osprey & Golden Eagle in February which has had good customer feedback.

I offer a bespoke service with a more tailored options on the Osprey to wider fitting customer requirements where the straps required are much wider than standard. This takes two months from order, but allows customer to choose colour and lining options.

For the Autumn Season 2022 I'll be seeking a select few trade partners, either country gun store or distinguished brands that will take an offering from range to suit their regional client base.

GF: Many thanks, James.

See www.fieldandmoor.co.uk.  

Field & Moor boots in their natural environment

Note : I was given sample boots to try out - my views on them are mine alone.